New bee packages need sugar syrup to build comb and establish a home. Without supplemental feeding in spring, young colonies will starve while they're building. The question isn't whether to feed—it's which feeder type is easiest to use without drowning bees or attracting robbers.
We've compared the main feeder types: entrance (Boardman), top hive-top (Mann Lake, Little Giant), frame feeders, and DIY options. Here's what works, what's a headache, and which one to buy for your first season.
Best for beginners: A simple hive-top feeder like the Mann Lake 10-frame (~$40). Fill it once, close the cover, walk away. Bees can't drown, and the reservoir keeps syrup available for days.
Budget pick: Boardman entrance feeder (~$7). Cheap and works fine in mild weather. Downside: easy for robber bees to find, and bees can drown in the jar.
Advanced option: Frame feeder for inside the hive. More work to refill, but it keeps syrup inside the brood box where bees need it.
Reality: Most beginners use a combination—entrance feeder for quick feeding, hive-top for overnight consistency. Plan to spend $20–$50 on feeders for the season.
Mann Lake 10-Frame Top Feeder with Unpainted Super
A hive-top feeder is the workhorse of spring feeding. The Mann Lake model sits directly under the outer cover, holds 2 gallons of syrup, and uses a galvanized steel screen so bees can't drown. You fill it once every 2–3 days, close the hive, and let it work. No fussing with jars, no robber bees discovering an entrance feeder at the front door. At $40, it's the best price-to-functionality ratio for beginners.
Check today's price →Quick comparison
| Product | Best for | Key detail | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mann Lake Hive-Top (10-frame) | Primary feeder for spring, all beekeepers | 2-gallon capacity, galvanized steel screen, sits under outer cover | about $40 |
| Boardman Entrance Feeder | Quick refills, warm days, backup feeder | Uses Mason jar, sits at hive entrance, very cheap | about $7 |
| Frame Feeder (division board) | Package bees, feeding without opening hive fully | Fits inside the hive where a frame goes, holds 1–2 pounds syrup | about $10–$20 |
| Little Giant Hive-Top Feeder | Weather-sealed version, more durable than plastic alternatives | Heavy-duty construction, clear lid, ant moat compatible | about $45–$60 |
| Harvest Lane Hive-Top with Ant Moat | Areas with heavy ant pressure | Built-in ant moat, 2-gallon capacity, plastic construction | about $35–$55 |
Our picks, one by one
Mann Lake Hive-Top Feeder (10-frame, unpainted)Best overall
The Mann Lake hive-top is the industry standard for good reason. Heavy-duty plastic, 2-gallon capacity (enough syrup for 3–4 days of feeding), and a galvanized steel screen so bees walk on it without drowning. You don't have to disassemble the hive to refill—just lift the outer cover and inner cover, pour syrup into the feeder, and close up. Minimal bee disturbance. Works in any weather. Costs about $40, which is reasonable for a tool you'll use every spring.
Check price & availability →Boardman Entrance FeederBudget pick
For $7, the Boardman is cheap and straightforward. You fill a Mason jar with syrup, invert it into the plastic base, and hang it at the hive entrance. Bees sip directly from small holes. It works fine for quick feeding in spring or maintaining a strong hive in early summer. The downside: bees can drown if the holes are too large, and robber bees smell the syrup from across the yard. Most beekeepers use Boardman as a secondary feeder, not a primary one. If you go this route, start it in the spring and bring it in by mid-June to avoid attracting robbers.
Check price & availability →Frame Feeder (Pro Feeder, division board style)Best for minimal hive disturbance
A frame feeder sits inside the brood box like a regular frame, holding syrup in an internal chamber. Bees access it from inside without opening the hive fully. This keeps syrup warm (inside the cluster) and avoids attracting robbers (it's inside, not visible from outside). Downside: you have to open the hive every 1–2 days to refill it, and it consumes valuable frame space in a small hive. Good for packages that are building slowly. Most beekeepers use a hive-top feeder instead because it requires fewer hive openings.
Check price & availability →Little Giant Hive-Top FeederPremium option
If you want the absolute most durable hive-top, Little Giant makes heavy-duty models with thicker plastic and better construction. The cost is higher, but the feeder lasts longer and handles rough handling better. Some beekeepers swear by it; others say Mann Lake is just as good for half the price. If you're budget-conscious, Mann Lake is the smart choice. If you want to buy once and not worry about replacement for 20 years, Little Giant is worth it.
Check price & availability →Harvest Lane Hive-Top with Ant MoatBest for areas with high ant pressure
Ants are a real problem in some regions, destroying bees and stealing honey. This feeder includes a built-in ant moat (a shallow water channel) that ants can't cross. The tradeoff: you have to keep the moat filled with water every 2–3 days, which adds a maintenance step. If you're in the South or Southwest where fire ants and other species are aggressive, this is a good investment (~$35–$55). If you're in a cooler region, a standard hive-top feeder is fine.
Check price & availability →Why Do Bees Need Feeding?
New package bees arrive with minimal honey stores. They need sugar syrup to:
- Build comb: Wax production requires energy. Bees eat syrup, convert it to wax, and build honeycomb.
- Establish brood: The queen needs nectar/syrup to lay eggs, and the colony needs energy to raise brood.
- Survive the first few weeks: Until foragers bring in nectar, the hive would starve without supplemental feeding.
- Prepare for winter: Fall feeding builds honey stores for winter survival (in cold climates).
Spring feeding (April–June) is essential. Fall feeding is important in cold climates, optional in warm ones. Don't skip spring feeding—your bees won't survive the first month without it.
Feeder Types: How They Work
- Hive-top (Mann Lake, Little Giant, Harvest Lane): Sits on top of the inner cover. Bees access syrup from below through a screen or hole. 2-gallon capacity, refilled every 2–3 days. Best for primary spring feeding.
- Entrance (Boardman): Sits at the hive entrance. Bees drink directly from a jar through small holes. ~1 pound capacity, refilled daily. Best as a secondary feeder.
- Frame feeder (Pro Feeder): Sits inside the hive like a frame. Bees access an internal reservoir. ~2 pounds capacity, refilled every 1–2 days. Good for packages, but disruptive to refill.
- Bucket feeder (DIY): A 5-gallon bucket with a screen laid on top of the frames, syrup poured on the screen, outer cover replaces the bucket. Cheap but messy and hard to refill without crushing bees.
When to Feed (Timeline for Your First Season)
- Package arrival (April): Package bees need immediate feeding. Start a hive-top or frame feeder the moment bees go in the hive. Feed continuously until natural nectar flow starts (usually late May).
- Early summer (May–June): Keep feeders going until bees stop taking syrup (a sign flowers are blooming and foragers are bringing in nectar). Weather helps—warm, sunny days mean more foraging.
- Stop feeding: Remove feeders in early summer. Bees should be self-sufficient by late May in most climates. Overfeeding late in the season confuses bees and discourages foraging.
- Fall (if needed): In cold climates (North), consider fall feeding (September–October) to boost winter stores. In warm climates, skip it—bees forage year-round.
Goal: Feed enough so the colony establishes and becomes self-sufficient. Not enough, and they starve. Too much, and you're wasting syrup and disrupting their natural foraging instinct.
How to Prevent Drowning and Robbing
Bee drowning: Bees drown in syrup if they fall in and can't climb out. Solutions:
- Use a hive-top with a galvanized steel screen (they walk on it, don't drown).
- If using a Boardman, check that the intake holes are small enough (~0.5 inch diameter) to limit bee entry.
- For frame feeders, the internal design should prevent drowning (most modern ones do).
Robbing: Robber bees from other hives smell syrup and attack. Prevention:
- Use a hive-top feeder (inside the hive, hidden from robbers).
- Remove entrance feeders by mid-June (before robbing season heats up).
- Reduce the hive entrance to a small opening (~1 inch) so your bees can defend better.
- Feed early (spring) when robbing pressure is low.
If you see a swarm of bees fighting at the entrance, you have a robbing problem. Close the entrance and switch to a hive-top feeder if you haven't already.
How Much Syrup Should You Make?
For spring feeding (April–June): Mix a 1:1 ratio by weight (1 pound sugar + 1 pound water, or 1 gallon white sugar + 1 gallon water). The lighter syrup is easier for bees to process when they're building comb.
For fall feeding (September–October): Use a 2:1 ratio (2 pounds sugar + 1 pound water) to better mimic ripe honey.
How much to feed: Your first hive will consume ~30–40 pounds of syrup over the spring (April–June). That sounds like a lot, but spread over 8 weeks, it's manageable. Plan on refilling a 2-gallon hive-top feeder every 2–3 days.
DIY tip: Mix syrup in a large pot, let it cool completely, then pour into feeders. Hot syrup can damage wax comb and bother bees. Some beekeepers use a honey bucket with a tap to store and dispense syrup efficiently.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Waiting too long to start feeding: Packages need food the moment they're installed. Don't wait for warm weather. Feed immediately in April.
- Stopping feeding too early: Don't pull feeders the moment you see some nectar. Keep feeding until bees stop taking syrup for 2–3 days (a sign they're self-sufficient).
- Using a Boardman as the primary feeder: Entrance feeders are convenient but attract robbers and allow drowning. Start with a hive-top feeder in spring.
- Overfeeding in late season: Continuous feeding past early summer confuses bees. They stop foraging and become dependent. Remove feeders by July to encourage natural foraging.
- Feeding honey instead of syrup: Don't feed honey to new colonies—it can introduce diseases like foulbrood. Use clean, fresh syrup only.
- Using brown sugar or molasses: Stick to white sugar and water. Brown sugar and molasses can introduce particles and fermentation.
Feeder Maintenance and Cleaning
Between refills: Rinse the feeder with hot water and let it dry before refilling. Syrup left sitting can ferment or mold.
End of season: Once you stop feeding, clean the feeder, dry it completely, and store it in a dry place. Mold and mildew love damp feeders.
For hive-top feeders: Check the galvanized steel screen regularly. If it rusts or corrodes, it won't function properly (bees might drown). Replace if needed.
For entrance feeders: Jars can crack if frozen (water in syrup expands). Don't leave them in unheated spaces in winter.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use honey instead of sugar syrup to feed bees?
No. Used honey can carry diseases like American foulbrood, which is devastating to colonies. Always use clean, fresh sugar syrup (white sugar + water). The only exception: using honey from your own hives in fall feeding, but even then, syrup is safer.
What if bees stop taking syrup—does that mean they're done feeding?
Usually yes. When syrup intake drops to nearly zero for 2–3 days, bees are self-sufficient with foraged nectar. Remove the feeder. If you leave it longer, bees become dependent and stop foraging.
Is it better to feed once per day or leave the feeder out continuously?
Leave the feeder out continuously if using a hive-top. Refill every 2–3 days. If using an entrance feeder, you can refill daily or leave it out—your choice. Continuous availability is less stressful for bees.
Do I need to feed if my hive is already building comb and has brood?
Yes, feed until natural nectar flow is strong (late May/early June in most regions). Brood-building requires tons of energy. Underfed colonies stall and may not survive even if they're producing brood.
Can I add vitamins or pollen substitute to syrup?
You can, but it's not necessary for beginners. Plain syrup works fine for spring feeding. Pollen substitute is useful if bees have no pollen source (unusual in spring when flowers are blooming), but it's an add-on, not essential.
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