Mason bees are easier to keep than honey bees—they don't sting unless you squeeze them, they pollinate 250-300 times more efficiently per bee, and they don't make honey to extract. But they do need a proper house. If you're planning to set up your first mason bee habitat, you're choosing between different sizes, materials, and price points. The right choice depends on how many bees you want to support and whether you're ready to clean cocoons yearly.
A mason bee house is just a cavity—it can be a simple wooden box, a stack of tubes, or an elegant cedar structure. Unlike honey bees, which build their own comb, mason bees use existing holes. This guide walks you through real, currently available options so you don't overspend or buy a house that won't work with your climate or setup.
Our pick: The Crown Bees Chalet ($48) is the best balance of durability, looks, and price for a first-timer. It's handcrafted cedar, holds 100-150 bees, and comes with paper tubes. If you want to start very small, the Cabana ($30) is a solid beginner option. For scale, the Welliver Standard ($54) offers a proven design in hardy Eastern White cedar.
Crown Bees Chalet (Housing Only)
The Chalet hits the sweet spot: it's handcrafted from sustainable Pacific Northwest cedar, holds 100-150 bees without overwhelming you, and costs less than $50. It looks nice on a fence, and Crown Bees includes a detailed setup guide with every purchase.
Check today's price →Quick comparison
| Product | Best for | Key detail | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Crown Bees Cabana (Small Hex) | First-time, small-scale | Holds 100 bees, handcrafted Pacific Northwest cedar | about $30 |
| Crown Bees Chalet | Balanced setup, 1-2 year hobby | Holds 100-150 bees, weatherproof cedar | about $48 |
| Crown Bees Villa (Large Hex) | Larger homestead, 150+ bees | Holds 150+ bees, premium cedar finish | about $50 |
| Welliver Standard Mason Bee House | Budget-conscious hobbyist | 3/4″ Eastern White Cedar, includes 100 paper tubes, made in USA | about $54 |
| Crown Bees Chalet Complete Kit | Want everything included | House + 250 paper tubes + bee certificate + setup guide | about $123 |
Our picks, one by one
Crown Bees CabanaBest for First-Timers
The Cabana is the entry point. It's handcrafted locally from Pacific Northwest cedar, small enough to fit on a fence or deck rail, and priced at $30 for the house alone. Crown Bees makes all their bee houses from sustainably sourced wood and finishes them to last 5+ years outdoors. The hex shape maximizes airflow and prevents water pooling.
Check price & availability →Crown Bees ChaletBest Overall Value
The Chalet is the most popular Crown Bees model for a reason. It holds 100-150 cocoons, which is about right for pollinating a backyard orchard or large garden. The handcrafted Pacific Northwest cedar is rot-resistant and weathers gracefully. Crown Bees sells cocoons separately so you can expand without building new houses.
Check price & availability →Welliver Standard Mason Bee HouseBest for Budget-Conscious
Welliver uses 3/4-inch Eastern White Cedar and rust-resistant hardware. It's made in the USA and includes 100 paper tubes. The dimensions are 7.5″ wide × 7.75″ deep × 7.0″ tall, which fits neatly on a standard fence post or mounting bracket. Priced at $54, it's a serious alternative if Crown Bees is sold out.
Check price & availability →Crown Bees Complete Kit (Chalet or Cabana)Best All-In-One for Confidence
Crown Bees complete kits bundle a bee house, 250 paper tubes, a cocoon certificate (so you get real mason bees to start), mounting hardware, and a detailed setup guide. The Chalet Complete Kit runs about $123. It removes the guesswork and is worth it if you value simplicity.
Check price & availability →Why a Proper Mason Bee House Matters
Mason bees don't build their own nests. In nature, they find existing cavities in dead wood or hollow plant stems. They can't tunnel or excavate like carpenter bees. A house that's too open lets in weather and predators. One that's too small limits the colony. A proper house has:
- Drilled holes or paper tubes: Typically 5/16-inch diameter for mason bees, spaced so cocoons don't touch (prevents disease spread).
- Proper roof overhang: Protects tubes from rain and keeps the interior dry.
- Drainage: A small hole or slant so water runs off, not pooling inside.
- Cedar or pine: Rot-resistant wood that lasts 5+ years without chemicals.
- Ventilation: Airflow prevents mold inside cocoons.
A cheap plastic house or improper DIY setup leads to fungal disease, mites, and parasitic wasps killing your bees before spring emergence.
Cedar vs. Other Materials—What to Know
Most quality mason bee houses use cedar or Eastern White Pine. Here's why:
- Cedar: Naturally rot-resistant, weathers gracefully to a silver-gray, lasts 5-7+ years without stain or sealer. More expensive upfront but a better long-term choice.
- Eastern White Pine: Lighter than cedar, still reasonably rot-resistant, cheaper. Welliver uses it successfully.
- Plastic or composite: Beware—plastic doesn't breathe. Water condenses inside, promoting chalkbrood fungus and mold. Avoid.
- Treated wood or stain: Don't use pressure-treated lumber (arsenic) or paint. Bees don't need paint; they need ventilation.
If a house says it's pre-stained or sealed, that's fine if it's a natural finish that allows airflow. Avoid plastic-sealed or varnished interiors.
Size: How Many Bees Can Your House Hold?
Mason bee population size scales with available nesting tunnels:
- Small houses (Cabana, ~100 cocoons): Pollinate a small garden or 10-20 fruit trees. Good for testing the waters.
- Medium houses (Chalet, ~150 cocoons): Cover a typical suburban backyard orchard (30-50 trees) and vegetable garden.
- Large houses (Villa, ~200+ cocoons): For homesteads with multiple orchards or commercial pollination goals.
You don't fill a house with cocoons all at once. You start with a certificate (usually 25-50 bees) and let them reproduce. By year two, cocoon numbers double if conditions are good. After cleaning cocoons in fall, you decide how many to keep for next spring.
The Annual Maintenance Reality: Cocoon Cleaning
Here's what most guides skip: You must clean mason bee cocoons every fall. If you don't, mites, wasps, and fungal disease will kill next year's bees before they emerge in spring.
Cleaning involves:
- Harvesting cocoons from tubes in late August-September (after bees have sealed themselves inside for winter).
- Soaking them in a 5% liquid oxygen bleach solution to kill bacteria, fungi, and mites.
- Drying them in a cool place for 2-3 weeks.
- Storing in the refrigerator over winter (35-45°F).
- Bringing them out in spring for emergence.
It takes about 2-3 hours per hundred cocoons. If you travel in fall or don't have refrigerator space, mason bees might not be the right fit. A few beekeepers buy fresh cocoons each spring instead of cleaning—more expensive but less hassle.
Mounting: Location and Setup
Where you place your bee house matters as much as which one you buy:
- Morning sun exposure: Mount on an east-facing surface so bees wake up with warmth. Lazy bees don't forage.
- Protection from prevailing rain: If you're west of the Mississippi and get afternoon thunderstorms, mount on a north or east-facing wall, never west or south in a storm zone.
- 5-6 feet high: Too low and predators (wasps, chickens, spiders) take residents. Too high and you can't clean cocoons safely.
- Away from water runoff: Don't place directly under a gutter or low roof edge.
- Slight forward tilt: A 10-degree tilt prevents water pooling inside and makes cocoon cleanup easier.
Most houses come with mounting hardware or a bracket. Wall-mount or fence-mount, but avoid hanging freely where wind rocks it—vibration stresses bees.
Who Should NOT Buy a Mason Bee House
Mason bees aren't for everyone, and that's okay:
- If you can't commit to annual fall cleaning, the bees won't survive winter disease pressure.
- If you're allergic to mites or mold, the cocoon cleaning process will trigger allergies. (The bees themselves are non-stinging, but their cocoons host pollen mites.)
- If you live in an area with cold winters below -15°F, plan for a storage fridge or buy new cocoons each spring.
- If you want honey, buy a honey bee hive instead. Mason bees don't make honey.
- If you have young toddlers and no safe place to mount a house 5+ feet high, wait a few years.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use a mason bee house for other bee species?
Yes, but sizing matters. Mason bees need 5/16-inch holes. Carpenter bees, leafcutter bees, and other solitary species prefer larger holes (up to 3/8-inch). Some people use a house with multiple sized holes, but mason bees are the most beginner-friendly and the standard.
How long does a cedar bee house last?
A well-made cedar house (Crown Bees, Welliver) lasts 5-7 years without staining. Exposure to full sun and rain will gray the wood, but that's normal and doesn't affect function. Bring it in for the harshest winters, or leave it mounted year-round—both work.
Do I need to drill my own holes or buy tubes?
Most quality bee houses come with paper tubes or pre-drilled holes. Don't DIY unless you have a drill press and can space holes exactly right. Buying a house with tubes included is faster and more reliable.
How do I know if a house has enough drainage?
Look for a small hole drilled into the bottom or a slight downward slope inside the house. If tubes sit in water, mold grows fast. A 1/4-inch drainage hole is standard for wooden houses.
Can I leave the house mounted in winter, or do I need to bring it inside?
In mild climates (USDA zones 7+), mounting year-round is fine. In cold regions (zone 6 and colder), bring the house indoors in late fall after cocoon harvest, store at 35-45°F, and remount in early spring. Or keep it outdoors if you're in zone 7+ and the wood is cedar.
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